📌 Quick Facts About Yemen 🇾🇪
Yemen sits at the southern end of the Arabian Peninsula, bordering Oman and Saudi Arabia, with coastlines on the Arabian Sea, Gulf of Aden, and Red Sea.
It is one of the most culturally fascinating countries in the Middle East, but also one of the most difficult to visit because of the ongoing conflict, security concerns, and complicated logistics.
Important: current government travel advisories from countries including the United
States and United Kingdom advise against all travel to Yemen. Do not treat this story
as a casual recommendation to go without serious planning, current security checks,
and trusted local support.
If you want to go with the same guide that I used, I attached a contact sheet at the bottom for $4.99 to avoid spam.
- 🏛️ CapitalSana'a, though access is extremely limited
- 💵 CurrencyYemeni rial (YER)
- 🗣️ LanguageArabic
- 🌡️ ClimateHot coast, mountains, deserts, and monsoon-influenced areas near Hawf
- 🔌 Plug typeMostly Type A, D and G · *Anker Universal Travel Adapter
- 🌏 RegionMiddle East, Arabian Peninsula
🇾🇪 Why I Wanted to Visit Mainland Yemen
Yemen was a massive milestone for me because it completed the Middle East. Finishing the region was a huge achievement. Many countries in the Middle East can be difficult to visit, and Yemen was one of them.
Most people who visit Yemen today go to Socotra Island. Socotra is beautiful, relatively accessible, and much easier to organize. I would still love to visit Socotra one day myself.
But for this trip, I specifically wanted to visit mainland Yemen. Surprisingly, there is a way to do it without spending thousands of euros: a day trip from Oman.
That is exactly what I did.
🚗 From Salalah to the Yemeni Border
I started in Salalah, in southern Oman, and very early in the morning headed toward the Yemeni border together with a local fixer. If you want to visit mainland Yemen, having local contacts is absolutely essential.
Unlike Socotra, this is not a destination where you can just forget about safety issues. The drive from Salalah to the border takes roughly an hour, and the contrast between the two countries is one of the most dramatic border crossings I have ever experienced.
The Omani border post feels almost like an airport terminal. Everything is modern, organized, clean, and well maintained.
Then you cross the no-man's-land between the two countries and suddenly arrive at the Yemeni side. The difference is enormous. The Yemeni border facilities are extremely basic. There is immigration, of course, but everything feels much more improvised and rudimentary compared to Oman. It's more or less a guy sitting next to a fence.
Within minutes, however, I officially entered Yemen.
⛰️ Hawf: Mountains, Coastline and a Giant Flag
The first thing that surprised me was the scenery. Most people associate Yemen with conflict and poverty, but the landscape around Hawf is genuinely beautiful.
The road follows mountains overlooking the Arabian Sea, creating spectacular views. At several points we stopped at viewpoints where you can look down toward the coastline and the city below.
Honestly, if this area were located somewhere else politically, it would probably be a major holiday destination. The combination of beaches and mountains is stunning.
Eventually we arrived in Hawf, a small coastal town. Our first stop in Hawf was a small hill where there was a giant Yemeni flag overlooking the surrounding area.
I have since heard from other travelers that the flag may have been removed, but when I visited it was still there and made for a great photo stop.
🏘️ Yemeni Architecture and the Reality on the Ground
One thing you immediately notice in Yemen is the architecture. Traditional Yemeni buildings have a very distinctive style, often built from brown stone or mud brick and decorated with white geometric patterns around the windows.
Even in this remote corner of the country, the architecture felt unique and unmistakably Yemeni.
At the same time, it was impossible not to notice the effects of years of conflict and economic hardship. Many buildings looked damaged or unfinished. Infrastructure was basic. Overall, the region felt poor, especially compared to neighboring Oman.
That said, people were incredibly welcoming. At one stop outside the city, I found an actual cartridge lying on the ground. When I showed it to my guide, he laughed and explained that Yemen remains fairly lawless compared to most countries.
He even told me that, theoretically, it was possible to rent a machine gun for around thirty dollars per day. Obviously I had no interest in doing that, but it gives you a reality check and a sense for the security situation in Yemen.
⚽ Meeting Local Schoolchildren in Hawf
One of my favorite parts of the day was meeting local schoolchildren. I had been learning a bit of Arabic at the time, and they were fascinated by the fact that a foreign traveler had come all the way to Hawf.
We talked about football, and as happens surprisingly often around the world, people immediately connected my name to Luka Modric.
"Luca? Luka Modric!"
So once again, I have to thank Luka Modric for making my name easier to remember internationally.
🍚 A Traditional Yemeni Lunch
The highlight of the trip came at lunchtime. We stopped at a traditional Yemeni restaurant where I sat together with local Yemenis on the floor and shared a meal.
The experience was fantastic. Everything is very communal. You sit on the ground, food is served in large shared dishes, and people eat with their hands.
I chose a local rice dish without meat, and it was excellent. The restaurant itself became complete chaos by the end of the meal.
Rice everywhere. People talking loudly. Everyone eating with their hands. It was messy, noisy, and exactly the kind of experience I had hoped for.
During the trip, I also met a Chinese traveler called Tab, and we ended up exploring parts of the area together for the rest of the day.
One man I met in the restaurant told me he had originally come from Ethiopia and had crossed the Gulf of Aden via Djibouti before eventually settling in Hawf. Stories like that remind you how interconnected this region still is despite the conflicts.
🌿 Khat Culture in Yemen
Another topic that came up repeatedly was khat. Khat is a stimulant leaf that people chew socially throughout Yemen.
You see evidence of it almost everywhere. Many people spend afternoons chewing khat while talking, relaxing, or conducting business.
Although khat is also popular in places like Somalia and parts of East Africa, Yemen is unique because it plays such a major role in everyday social life. Throughout the day, I kept noticing discarded khat leaves.
🧭 Yemen's Conflict and Why Travel Is So Complicated
Of course, one day is not enough time to properly explore Yemen in depth. The country is much larger and more diverse than many people realize.
Unfortunately, much of Yemen remains inaccessible due to the ongoing conflict. Since the civil war began, the country has effectively been divided between different authorities.
The internationally recognized government controls much of the east and south of the country, while the Houthi movement controls large parts of western Yemen, including the capital, Sana'a. Most sources speak of a proxy-war between Saudi Arabia and Iran, with the former supporting the government and the latter supporting the Houthis.
The conflict has become one of the most devastating humanitarian crises in the world and has deeply affected daily life across the country. As a result, many of Yemen's most famous destinations remain extremely difficult or impossible for foreign travelers to visit.
Places like Sana'a are completely closed for foreign visitors. Going deeper into "Sourth Yemen", aka the Eastern part, is possible, but can costs many thousands of dollars for a short trip. One day, I hope to visit cities like Shibam.
💭 Final Thoughts on Visiting Mainland Yemen
Even so, this short visit gave me a glimpse into a country that I had wanted to visit for years. The scenery was beautiful. The people were welcoming. The culture was fascinating.
And perhaps most importantly, it completed the Middle East for me.
Looking back, I would absolutely like to return one day. Socotra remains high on my list, and I would also love to explore more of southern Yemen, especially places like Mukalla or Shibam.
But even though my visit was brief, I really enjoyed my time in Yemen.
📄 Want the Same Yemen Guide Contact?
If you want to do the same mainland Yemen day trip from Oman, I am preparing a short contact PDF with the contact information. Depending on your exact route, the trip will cost around 500 Euros. He can also organize longer trips deeper into the country! My contact PDF gives you my personal contact for $4.99.
Buy Yemen Guide Contact