📌 Quick Facts About My Afghanistan Visit 🇦🇫
I spent around two weeks in Kabul in 2020 (before the Taliban takeover in 2021). I was not there as a tourist in the usual sense. I was there to teach juggling at a local circus school.
This article is a personal account from that specific period, not current travel advice. Afghanistan's political and security situation has changed dramatically since my visit, which is why I won't label it as a "travel guide", like I do for most other countries. It is generally considered to be safer to visit nowadays as a tourist (no more kidnappings, no fighting), but worse for the local population (stricter rules, less freedom).
Afghanistan sits at the crossroads of South and Central Asia, shaped by mountains, ancient trade routes, Persianate culture, Pashtun traditions, and centuries of overlapping empires. Kabul, where I stayed, is both the capital and the country's largest city.
The country is landlocked, extremely mountainous, and culturally diverse, with Dari and Pashto as its main official languages. Even during a difficult period, what stood out to me most was the hospitality, food, resilience, and warmth of the people I met.
- 🏛️ CapitalKabul
- 💵 CurrencyAfghan afghani (AFN)
- 🗣️ LanguagesDari and Pashto
- 🌡️ SeasonWinter in Kabul
- 🔌 Plug typeVaries · *Anker Universal Travel Adapter
- 🌏 RegionSouth / Central Asia
🛬 Arriving in Kabul
I flew into Kabul from Pakistan, arriving from Islamabad. After my time in Afghanistan, I would continue via Dubai to Zanzibar, beginning my first journey into Sub-Saharan Africa.
The flight into Kabul was unforgettable. It was winter, and the mountains surrounding the city were covered in snow. The aircraft flew low through the valleys before the city suddenly appeared below. It was one of the most dramatic approaches I have ever experienced.
This was before the Taliban takeover in 2021. At the time, Kabul still had a large international military presence. The airport was heavily secured, with foreign troops everywhere.
After landing, I managed to withdraw some Afghanis (that's the currency) from one of the airport ATMs and was picked up by members of the circus school.
🤹 Teaching at Afghanistan's Circus School
The reason I came to Afghanistan was the Mobile Mini Circus for Children, now known as the Parwana Circus. As a professional juggler, I had always wanted to visit the project.
Years earlier, Erin Stevens, a former president of the International Jugglers' Association, had visited the school and told me countless stories about it. Eventually, I decided to see it for myself.
On my very first evening, I was already performing. The students organized a welcome show, and naturally they wanted me to juggle. Within hours of arriving in Afghanistan, I was already on stage performing for local children and families.
Over the following weeks, I spent my days teaching juggling and circus skills to students ranging from very young children to young adults. Some of them were incredibly talented.
Two sisters in particular, Rabia and Nazanin, stood out. They were already known internationally within the juggling community and were among the most talented young jugglers I had ever met.
🏙️ Life in Kabul
One of the most surprising things about Afghanistan was how affordable everything was. At the time, it was easily the cheapest country in the world. And I really mean THE cheapest.
A plate of street food such as bolani often cost around 10 Afghanis, roughly €0.10 at the time. Fresh pomegranate juice cost about the same.
One day, after visiting a traditional Afghan hammam with one of the trainers, I calculated all our expenses: 2x hot showers, 2x soap, 2x shampoo, 2x towel rental, 2x pomegranate juices, and one large Afghan bread.
The total came to just €2.89.
I also visited a second-hand market where jeans were being sold for around €1.
🍞 Afghan Food
People are often surprised when I tell them that Afghanistan was actually quite easy for me as a vegan.
Because I was staying at the circus school and eating with the students, most meals were naturally plant-based. Meat was expensive, and the school had to operate on a tight budget.
Most meals consisted of bread, beans, vegetables, rice dishes, and stews. One of my favourite ingredients was okra, which appeared frequently in meals. I loved it so much that I requested it multiple times.
The bread deserves special mention. Afghanistan has some of the best bread I have ever eaten. Freshly baked every morning, it was often served with beans, vegetables, or jam.
- Bolani, stuffed Afghan flatbread.
- Fresh pomegranate juice.
- Sugarcane juice.
- Corn on the cob sold on the streets.
- Stews with vegetables and okra.
- Delicious Afghan bread.
Something less appetizing happened after a day out at the market. I got food poisoning and shat my pants for the next 3 days. I suspect it was the tasty Bolani.
🔥 Living Like a Local
I stayed directly at the circus school and had my own room there. Heating was done the traditional way. Every day I had to put firewood into the stove myself.
Growing up in Germany, this felt like stepping into a completely different world.
The hospitality of the Afghan people was incredible. The trainers frequently took me around Kabul and showed me parts of the city that tourists would never normally see.
We visited local markets, traditional hammams, cafes, and neighbourhoods all over the city. One evening, a trainer even took me to some of the slums on the hills above Kabul.
He specifically asked me not to film there, but it gave me a fascinating impression of the reality of Afghanistan's poorer communities.
⚠️ The Reality of Security
At the time of my visit, the United States had already announced plans to withdraw from Afghanistan in the future. As a result, the security situation was tense.
Almost every time I went out with local friends, they would point out locations where attacks had recently happened.
"There was a car bombing there last week."
"There was an explosion there a few days ago."
"This street was attacked last month."
One incident especially stuck with me. We had planned to visit a park one morning. I was excited about it, but around lunchtime I realized we had not left yet.
When I asked why, the trainers told me there had been a car bombing near the area that morning. Had we left earlier as originally planned, we might have been there when it happened.
That was a sobering reminder of where I was.
The American military presence was impossible to miss. Helicopters regularly flew low over the city, and the large surveillance aerostat balloon that monitored Kabul was visible in the sky almost every day.
Another memorable moment happened one evening while having dinner at the circus school. Suddenly we heard gunfire just outside the compound. I was terrified. The trainers barely reacted.
They calmly explained that it was probably local gangs fighting and advised me to stay quiet and remain indoors. For them, it was simply part of life.
🕌 Exploring Kabul
Despite the security challenges, Kabul had many fascinating places to visit. One of my favourites was the Kart-e Sakhi Shrine, often called Kabul's Blue Mosque.
It is one of the city's most important religious sites and a major place of pilgrimage for Afghanistan's Shia Muslim community. The blue tiles, colourful decorations, and lively atmosphere made it one of the most beautiful places I visited during my stay.
I also visited traditional markets, cafes, and neighbourhoods across the city.
One thing I learned quickly was that I attracted a lot of attention as a foreigner. Because of security concerns, locals often encouraged me to wear traditional Afghan clothing. Not only was it comfortable, but it also helped me blend in more easily. Kidnappings of foreigners was a serious concern at the time.
🧪 COVID in Kabul
On top of the security challenges, my Afghanistan trip also coincided with the COVID-19 pandemic. Before leaving the country, I needed a negative COVID test.
That meant visiting a hospital in Kabul during the pandemic, which was an experience in itself. Fortunately, the result came back negative.
💭 Final Thoughts on Afghanistan
Afghanistan was one of the most eye-opening countries I have ever visited. It was dangerous at times. It was unpredictable. It was challenging.
But it was also one of the most hospitable places I have ever experienced.
The people I met were kind, generous, curious, and welcoming. The students at the circus school were incredibly talented. The food was fantastic. And despite everything the country had gone through, there was still so much warmth and optimism.
Most importantly, Afghanistan showed me that some of the places people fear the most are often the places where you learn the most.
Without Afghanistan, I honestly do not think I would have set myself the goal of visiting every country in the world. I officially declared this goal 2 countries later, in South Africa.
