๐ Quick Facts About Burkina Faso ๐ง๐ซ
Burkina Faso is a landlocked country in West Africa, bordered by Mali, Niger, Benin, Togo, Ghana, and Cรดte d'Ivoire. Its capital, Ouagadougou, is usually shortened to Ouaga and is the political, cultural, and artistic heart of the country.
The country was formerly known as Upper Volta and was renamed Burkina Faso in 1984 under Thomas Sankara. The name is often translated as "land of upright people," and the country is known for its strong cultural identity, music, cinema, crafts, and increasingly visible circus scene.
- ๐๏ธ CapitalOuagadougou
- ๐ต CurrencyWest African CFA franc (XOF)
- ๐ฃ๏ธ LanguageFrench, plus local languages including Moorรฉ and Dioula
- ๐ก๏ธ ClimateTropical savanna, with dry and rainy seasons
- ๐ Plug typeType C/E ยท *Anker Universal Travel Adapter
- ๐ RegionWest Africa
๐บ Arrival in Ouaga
I flew in with Brussels Airlines from Brussels and afterwards continued onward to Abidjan in Cรดte d'Ivoire.
My visit centered on Ouagadougou, usually called Ouaga, and was shaped by local friends, circus training, street food, monuments, a bit of nightlife, and a very close look at everyday life in the Burkinabรจ capital.
Burkina Faso was special to me because one of my good friends, Erin Stephens, lives there. Erin is a former president of the International Jugglers' Association and has been living in Burkina Faso for years with her Burkinabรจ husband.
Together they helped build a circus project in Ouagadougou (Yennega Circus), and I had always wanted to visit. So while this trip was partly about tourism, it was also about finally seeing the project for myself.
When I arrived in Ouagadougou, one of the circus members picked me up from the airport. The very first thing we did was stop at a local roadside bar.
There I learned about what is apparently one of the most important debates in Burkina Faso: Brakina or Sobbra?
These are the two biggest beer brands in the country, and people have very strong opinions about which one is better. I do not even like beer very much, but I quickly realized that asking "Brakina or Sobbra?" is an excellent conversation starter in Ouaga.
On my first evening, we went to the Zogona district and tried local street food. Later that night we headed to La Belle รtoile, one of the most popular nightlife spots in Ouagadougou.
It happened to be a Saturday, and throughout the city people were celebrating weddings. Cars were honking everywhere, music was blasting from roadside bars, and the atmosphere was fantastic.
๐จ Where to Stay in Ouagadougou
I stayed with friends from a circus project. Of course, most travellers will need accommodation in Ouaga. If you are looking for hotels in Ouagadougou, here are three popular options that offer a higher level of comfort and service:
- Bravia Hotel Ouagadougou: one of the city's most modern hotels, featuring spacious rooms, a large pool, and excellent facilities for both business and leisure travelers.
- Lancaster Ouaga 2000: a comfortable upscale hotel in the modern Ouaga 2000 district, known for its professional service and convenient location near government buildings.
- Sopatel Silmandรฉ: a long-established hotel set in a large garden area, offering a resort-like atmosphere with one of the best swimming pools in the city.
๐ฅ Local Food in Ouagadougou
One of my first meals in Ouagadougou was a proper introduction to Burkinabรจ home-style food: tรด, bean-based sauces, leafy vegetable stews, local spices, and a few dishes whose names I only partly managed to write down.
Some were explained to me as Suma, Piga or something close to that, and other names varied depending on who I asked. What I loved was that many of the dishes were naturally vegan, built around millet, maize, beans, leafy greens, and simple ingredients that were filling, local, and full of flavor.
The appearance was not always convincing. Some of it looked a little bit like hardened cow dung. But it tasted far better than it looked.
For lunch I later found one of my favorite meals of the trip: street vendors selling tofu brochettes inside baguettes. It reminded me a little bit of a Vietnamese bรกnh mรฌ, except West African style.
The tofu is often used because it is cheaper than meat, and it was absolutely delicious. I also drank plenty of local ginger juice, hibiscus juice, and visited Restaurant Vรฉgรฉtarien La Nasa, which I can definitely recommend (you can find it on HappyCow).
โญ Thomas Sankara Memorial
One of the first major landmarks I visited was the Thomas Sankara Memorial. Thomas Sankara is one of the most influential figures in modern African history and is often referred to as "Africa's Che Guevara."
He led Burkina Faso during the 1980s, promoted self-sufficiency, women's rights, and anti-colonial policies, and remains enormously popular throughout the country.
The memorial is completely free to visit and is one of the most important places in Ouagadougou today.
๐๏ธ Monument des Martyrs
From there I visited the Monument des Hรฉros Nationaux, often referred to as the Monument des Martyrs. This enormous monument is probably the most recognizable landmark in Ouagadougou.
You can actually climb up the monument, which is exactly what I did. From the top you get one of the best views over the city.
Of course, being a white traveler in Burkina Faso meant attracting a lot of attention. People constantly wanted photos. Many called me "Nasara," which simply means white person.
๐ท๐บ Russian Flags in Ouagadougou
One of the things I noticed while exploring Ouagadougou was the large number of Russian flags throughout the city.
Traveling to every country has taught me that politics is never just something you read about online. You actually see the effects of political decisions in everyday life.
Following the military coups in Burkina Faso and neighboring countries such as Niger, anti-French sentiment has become quite common among parts of the population. Many people blame France for decades of failed policies and security problems, while Russia has become increasingly popular in public discourse.
As a result, Russian flags are very common around Ouagadougou, alongside flags of neighboring countries that have undergone similar political changes. Especially at roundabouts you see them frequently.
I also visited Ouaga 2000, the modern administrative district of the city. This is where many government buildings, embassies, and newer developments are located. Compared to the rest of Ouagadougou, it feels much more modern and spacious.
๐คน Visiting the Circus Project
And of course, I spent a lot of time at the circus project. The kids completely blew me away.
Some of them are genuinely good jugglers and have created shows with the Yennega Circus. I spent hours teaching, practicing, and showing them new tricks to learn.
It was one of the highlights of my time in Burkina Faso. Later I also got to juggle again with Erin, which was special after not seeing each other for a long time.
I also visited the Cathรฉdrale de l'Immaculรฉe-Conception de Ouagadougou, the city's most important cathedral and one of the most recognizable religious landmarks in Burkina Faso.
๐ Lac de Loumbila
Another evening we headed out toward Lac de Loumbila. The area around Loumbila is one of the most popular recreational spots outside the city.
There is even a surprisingly upscale amusement and leisure complex nearby. It felt kind of weird because it seemed so out of place. In the middle of Burkina Faso, after quite a long drive, suddenly there are pools, rides, restaurants, and expensive entrance fees.
Swimming in the pool alone costs around seven euros, which is a huge amount by local standards. Most people only visit for special occasions.
We spent the evening juggling by the water and watching the sunset over the lake. I had a great time there.
๐ต Roads in Ouagadougou
The roads around Ouagadougou can be quite an adventure, especially during the rainy season. Potholes are everywhere, and heavy rain can quickly turn parts of the city into muddy obstacle courses.
Before leaving I also visited the Maison du Peuple, one of the city's historic public buildings and an important venue for political and cultural events.
Then it was already time to head back to the airport. I said goodbye to everyone at the circus project they brought me with motorbikes to the terminal.
๐ญ Final Thoughts on Visiting Burkina Faso
My visit to Burkina Faso was short but incredibly memorable. It was not the easiest country to visit, and it certainly is not a classic tourist destination, but I loved the local atmosphere, the food, the circus community, and the chance to see a side of West Africa that very few travelers experience.
In fact, I am already considering going back. Burkina Faso is developing a larger circus scene, and Yennega Circus is planning to host the first-ever big circus festival soon.
So there is a decent chance that Burkina Faso will become one of the countries I revisit sooner rather than later.
Leaving Ouagadougou, I boarded an Air Cรดte d'Ivoire flight to Abidjan and continued on to country number 161.
